In this post I want to tell you more about the tour. Hector and I chose the 4 day Lost City Trek (I believe it’s the most popular – but you can also do 3, 5 and 6 days as well). Magic Tours picked us up at 8 a.m. from our hotel and brought us to their office a few minutes away. There we paid the final balance and gave them the luggage we wanted to store.
After waiting on one last couple to arrive we then set off in a 4X4 with our backpacks secured to the top. Depending on where you are getting dropped off after the tour, they may take your stored luggage as well to store at a different/closer site. Make sure you check out my previous post to find out what we packed. I scoured the internet before leaving for Colombia, to make sure I was bringing the right stuff. Hopefully it helps!
The drive to El Mamey is about 2.5 hours. Here you will have lunch and relax before you officially hit the road (jungle path) towards the first camp. Our group had 14 people, plus a guide, a translator, and a cook. After a home-cooked lunch, and a little bit of information about the trail (with a large map painting) it is time to set off.
Be aware that there are no mules to carry your backpacks, you have to carry everything yourself. If it is not possible to carry your gear you can speak to the guide about finding a mule to carry your stuff but there will be an extra charge. We did have one couple who paid for a mule on the way back to carry their bags. The guide also offered to let the group leave any stuff at the 1st camp since we would be passing back that way. We decided to keep everything with us since the only extra item we had was a small sleeping back.
The 1st day is pretty brutal – I’m not going to lie. Our guide took us more through the jungle as opposed to the only ‘road’ to the 1st camp. On the way back we came back via that road and it was rough. I would say harder than the path we took through the jungle. It is very dusty, steep, no shade and lots of motorcycles kept zooming past. That’s not to say the way we went up was much easier. It was still very steep but it provided a bit more shade, but there were no motor bikes and less dust. It also kept us by the river.
I will admit ‘what have I got myself into’ crossed my mind more than once, however, on one of the first breaks we got to cool off in the river! That alone made the trekking worth it! Our translator lead the way and our guide followed at the back. What was nice was that they let you go at your own pace and you could break whenever you wanted. For those hiking together as a group, the breaks are spaced out at the right times and there are certain pit stops where everyone has snacks. Overall, the steepness was way more than I imagined but it was also my first hike/tour that lasted more than 2 days!
We made it to the first camp a couple of hours after we set off. The camps were more outfitted than I expected. They had bathrooms and showers with running water. As for sleeping, there were open structures (with just a roof) with bunk beds. Each bunk bed had a mattress, blanket, and mosquito net.
The first camp has a place where you can go swim in the river but after hiking most of the day (uphill) I just wanted to go shower and change. Surprisingly, Even with it being so hot out, the water in the showers are cold!! After showering, changing and getting our bunk beds set up Hector and I relaxed at the table and waited for dinner.
Dinner was amazing! We had an entire fish, rice, salad, plantains and then chocolate biscuits for dessert. After the first day we were exhausted and went right to sleep!
I had heard the second day was the hardest and that was no joke! We left camp at 6 a.m. and the hills never ended! Throughout the course of the day the little bit that is in my dry bag makes its way to the backpack. The scenery along the way is beautiful. You get to see lots of wildlife and every now and then you follow along the river as well. We stopped (a few hours) later in the morning, after one of the big hills, for some fresh fruit and a sit down. There are sometimes little stalls, here and there, where you can buy Gatorade or other drinks if you want.
Lunch was at the camp where we would spend our third night (during the return trip). After lunch we were back at it and THE HILLS CONTINUED! On day two you pass by one of the indigenous villages. We saw two children and they asked for ‘dulce’ when we passed by. About 30 minutes before you reach Camp Paraiso Teyuna (about 3km from The Lost City) you have to cross the river. There seems to be a few ways to cross lol! Since the water was low you could jump on the rocks or just take your shoes off and wade through. If it is high you may have to take the cage! Our translator told us that our group beat his record time of reaching that camp!
That evening was pretty much the same. Hector and I were both so tired that we just showered and got our stuff ready for the next day before eating and going to bed.
The next morning we woke bright and early, and after breakfast we set off for The Lost City. It is only 3km from camp but that includes 1,200 steps just to get to the entrance! The steps were pretty harsh! We stopped around the midpoint for a breather and then carried on. That feeling of reaching the top was something else! They give you a passport book as your entrance ticket and then you are on your way. We looked around and explored the lower levels for about an hour while also being given some history/information by the guide. After that we headed up and towards the ‘golf course’ shot.
The Tayrona’s built The Lost City in 800 AD but it was only recently discovered in 1972 by some treasure looters/hunters. They came across the stairs leading up to the city when passing by. They nicknamed the site “Green Hell” (I’m guessing because of a mix between the heat, the bugs and the dense jungle). After treasures began appearing on the black market the government intervened by going in to preserve/restore the site. The local tribes said they had known about the site all along and would regularly visit but kept quiet about it.
There are three different tribes that live in the area. The Arhauco, Kogis, and Wiwas but the Kogis are thought to most resemble the Tayrona people. Along the hike you frequently pass by people from the different tribes.
The site was thought to house between 2000-8000 people but was abandoned during the Spanish conquest. It is thought to be the Tayronas biggest city and their political and economic center. The site contains 169 stone terraces. However, only 10% of the site is actually excavated.
The views as you climb up the stone terraces are spectacular. Mountains and thick jungle completely surround you! There is also a tall waterfall in the background. You will frequently see armed guards around the site (and along the hike). The hike is now safe and has been for about 15 years…but it was not always that way. In 2003 a group of tourists were kidnapped for 3 months because of the conflicts between the Colombia National Army, right wing paramilitary groups and left wing Guerrilla groups.
We got to spend a few hours at the site. When we got to the top our guide set up a plate of fruit, crackers, and crisps for us all to snack on. A few friends (dogs) also joined us and as a bonus; a view of the National Geographic helicopter landing!
The only way back down is via the 1200 steps! This was pretty tricky since they are damp and all mismatched! Once at the bottom of the steps, we walked the short distance back to the camp we stayed the night at. There we had lunch and grabbed our stuff to start walking to the camp we had lunch at on day two.
Since the way back was mainly downhill it went a lot faster. We got back to camp in good time and decided to go swim in the river before taking a shower and getting our beds ready.
After dinner (pasta with tomato sauce) a shaman from one of the local tribes was there to give us more information about his tribe and The Lost City. We all headed to the campfire once it got dark and sat in a circle to listen to him talk. He told us about his tribes beliefs, how they live and more about The Lost City. It was interesting to learn that they believe we (visitors, what they call ‘little brother’) bring our everyday stress to the site. Therefore, every September the site closes for the shaman from each tribe to go visit and purify. They hope that when we visit we leave our negative energy and take with us positive energy. The national park also does the same thing but in February!
Make sure you pack bug spray! This was the only time I got bit!
The next day we hiked back to where we started on day one (where we had lunch before setting off). We went down the path where the motorcycles can go (different from the way we came up) and it was very steep and dusty! Make sure you have plenty of water and put your sunscreen on. I think I got sun poisoning that day! Once back you have lunch (you tell them what you want on that first day) and can finally just relax!! There are showers available but I had no clean clothes so I just decided to wait till I got back to the hotel.
After lunch they load you back up and it is off to your next destination wherever that may be. If you are heading to the national park they will drop you off there. If not, you head back to Santa Marta. We went back to Santa Marta and got our bags from the office and then they dropped us at our hotel.
We had a few days booked in Santa Marta before we were going to go stay around the National park. Looking back, I would have switched this. The national park is a lot closer to the start of the hike. We would have done better to stay a few days around the national park and then one in Santa Marta (see my next post for more info). That way we were not paying for so many taxis. Especially since the Airport is past Santa Marta. I guess you live and learn!
This was one of the hardest yet most rewarding trips I have done! It is my first trekking holiday and certainly not my last! I’m currently just back from my second – stay tuned for that also coming soon!
Lots of Love,
Buffy x
