One of my favorite parts of Tulum was visiting all the cenotes. In fact, while I was planning this trip I spent hours trying to look up which cenotes to visit. There are so many to choose from and just not enough time. I only had time to visit three of them and they were all wonderful and so different. We relied on taxis and walking to get to all of the cenotes. However, we met a father and daughter while at one of them who had rented a car. I think that would be an easier way to see them. Let me tell you about the ones I visited. Keep on reading!
First, I’ll tell you what a cenote is; basically it is a sinkhole, or natural pit that has occurred from collapsing limestone. Since it is the limestone roof of a cavern collapsing the underground water is then exposed. Many times rainwater will also fill these pits. The word cenote comes from the Mayan word Dzonot which means ‘well’ . The water is usually fresh water and very clear (as you will see below).
Dos Ojos
Dos Ojos means ‘two eyes’ in Spanish and is actually two cenotes linked by a 400 meter underwater passageway. It is part of the largest underwater cave network in the world and easily one of the most beautiful cenotes to visit! The blue water looks like something you would see in the movies and is stunningly clear giving amazing visibility of all that is below.
Hector, Hannah, and I grabbed a taxi from Tulum and it took about 25 minutes to get to the main entrance. We paid the 200 pesos ($14) a person and then the taxi took us down the 2 km gravel road to the 2nd entrance where the actual cenote is. You can pay extra to rent snorkel gear if you want. They had life vests out (for no extra charge) so we each picked one up and headed to the first cenote.
DCIM100GOPROG0030557.JPG DCIM100GOPROG0030553.JPG
We walked down to the first cenote and hopped right in. Make sure you enter on the non-diver side if you are not diving. We lucked out and there was hardly anyone there! So we stayed about an hour, jumping off the platform, swimming about, and just having fun and getting lots of GoPro footage. Then we headed down to the second cenote, which was equally as beautiful, before heading back to Tulum. The taxi driver had agreed to wait for us, so we did not have to worry about finding a new taxi back. If they won’t wait, I would recommend asking for their card so you can call them when you are done and see if they will pick you up.
Cenote Calavera (skull)
This cenote is known as the “Temple of Doom” but actually translates to ‘Skull’ in English and rightly so. If you look at it from above, there is the large hole (where the ladder is) and then above that 2 smaller ones that look like the eye sockets! This cenote has a more laid-back feel and is a little off the beaten path. It is only 3 km from Tulum so getting a taxi is quick and cheap. There is also another cenote within walking distance away to check out after (coming up next).
Cenote Calavera is open from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. every day and cost us 100 pesos ($7) a person. Once you pay the fee you walk along this unassuming path with a couple of extra friends, or at least we did (see picture). At the end of the path you are met with a beautiful little swimming pool! Again, the water is crystal clear! You can jump off the edge and right into the water. You can also jump through the ‘eyes’. Just make sure you jump at just the right amount so you don’t hit any of the edges. The water is very refreshing! There is a ladder for you to get back out (or in) plus a small rope swing seat in the water.
We lucked out again because there were only a handful of people while we were there. I did have one scary moment that now I can look back and laugh at. I was swimming about and suddenly saw these bubble and shapes below me. It terrified me and tried to get out of the water as quickly as possible. I could not figure what was beneath me. A woman in the water with me finally clued me in that it was divers. It hadn’t crossed my mind that there were divers coming up. As we were about to leave we saw a different family about to set off on a dive (more on this later)!
After that I got stung by a pepper wasp! My whole left forearm swelled up so we took that as our queue to head to the next cenote of the day… and probably one of the most famous!
Gran Cenote
About a 15 minute walk from Cenote Calavera is the Gran Cenote. Given its name, you would think it would be rather large, but most of it is caves underground. Luckily, there are a couple of caverns available to see without having to scuba.
This one definitely feels more touristy and commercialized but is worth a visit, especially to see the turtles! Gran Cenote is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. every day and it is 475 pesos ($25 – a little pricier). Again, they have a place for you to rent snorkels and life vests. These do have an extra charge. If you are going to rent equipment make sure you have your ID because they will hold it and then give it back when you bring the gear back. Additionally, they have lockers available to rent.
Gran Cenote had a lot more people but it was still not overly crowded. There is a wooden platform to walk on when you get down to the water. From here, you can get into the cenote. What I really liked about this cenote was all the turtles you could see swimming about. The water is so clear that you don’t even need to be in the water to see them.
There is also a part on the left where you can swim through (some parts have a very low ceiling) and on the other side you will come out in a completely different cavern!
Speaking of different caverns and caves; remember the divers we saw getting in Cenote Calavera…well, we saw them at the Gran Cenote not long after arriving!
One last note: It is recommended when visiting these cenotes to wear biodegradable sunscreen or a sun shirt/rash guard to help protect the area from harmful chemicals, again, the turtles!
There are so many cenotes in the area and sadly, I did not have time to see any more than I did. I guess that gives me an excuse to plan another trip!
Have you visited any of the Cenotes in Rivera Maya? Let me know below!
Buffy xx
